Guide to the Baunei Coast: Map of Coves, Hiking and Boats

The Baunei coast represents one of the wildest, most pristine and spectacular stretches of coastline in Europe. Extending for about 40 kilometers along the Gulf of Orosei in central-eastern Sardinia, this limestone cliff overlooking the sea is interrupted only by "codule" (valleys carved by ancient rivers) that flow into beaches of very white pebbles and waters of unreal transparency.

In this complete guide, we will explore the map of the most famous coves, the celebrated hiking trails, and how to organize boat excursions.

Map of the Baunei Coves: The Jewels of the Gulf

Along the Baunei coast, legendary coves follow one another, each with unique characteristics. Starting from the south (Santa Maria Navarrese) towards the north (Cala Luna):

1. Cala Goloritzé: Famous for the Aguglia (a limestone monolite 148 meters high) and the natural rock arch. The beach is made of tiny white pebbles and is a protected Natural Monument.
2. Cala Mariolu (Ispuligidenie): Known as the "snow flea" for its candid and round pebbles. It has very clear turquoise waters and is divided in two by a limestone rock used as a natural pier.
3. Cala dei Gabbiani: Located just north of Cala Mariolu, it shares the extraordinary beauty of the water and pebbles, but with slightly less vertical cliffs at the base.
4. Cala Biriala: Hidden under the Biriola forest, a dense vegetation of holm oaks and junipers that grows clinging to the rock. It is characterized by a beautiful stone arch over the water.
5. Cala Sisine: Located at the mouth of the Codula di Sisine. It is a wider beach, formed by small polished limestone grains, enclosed between two high green-covered rock walls.
6. Cala Luna: On the border between the municipalities of Baunei and Dorgali. Famous for its six huge natural caves opening onto the beach, offering shade and a unique photographic frame.

Hiking on the Baunei Coast: Trails and "Scale de Fuste"

Reaching the coves on foot is an experience reserved for lovers of trekking and adventure. The territory is impervious and requires excellent physical preparation, orientation skills, and appropriate equipment.

Trail to Cala Goloritzé (CAI 702) - Departure: Golgo Plateau (Su Porteddu Parking) - Difficulty: E (Hiking) - Time: 1h15 on the way there (descent), 1h45 on the way back (ascent) - Elevation Change: 470 meters - Tip: The trail is well-marked, but requires hiking shoes due to the stony and slippery ground.

Trail to Cala Mariolu - Departure: Piredda locality (Golgo Plateau) - Difficulty: EE (Experienced Hikers) - Time: 2h on the way there, 3h on the way back - Elevation Change: 600 meters - Special note: Along the route you will tackle the historic scale de fuste, ancient ladders made of juniper branches and trunks wedged into the rock built by shepherds to overcome vertical rock steps. They require a steady foot and no fear of heights.

Trail to Cala Biriala - Departure: Ololbitti locality (Golgo Plateau) - Difficulty: EE (Experienced Hikers) - Time: 2h30 on the way there, 3h on the way back - Elevation Change: 400 meters - Special note: The route winds below the magnificent primary forest and features some steep sections equipped with ropes or wooden ladders.

Boat Excursions from Santa Maria Navarrese and Arbatax

For those who prefer convenience or want to visit multiple coves in a single day, the boat is the ideal solution. The main departure ports in Ogliastra are Santa Maria Navarrese and Arbatax.

Excursion options include:
- Line Boats: Large motorboats that make scheduled stops at the main coves (usually Cala Mariolu, Cala Luna and Cala Sisine). Ideal for families and those looking for an affordable, organized solution.
- Dinghies with Skipper (Charter): Guided excursions in groups of maximum 10-12 people. They allow entering marine caves (such as the Grotta del Fico) and taking swim stops offshore in the "pools of Venus".
- Self-Drive Dinghy Rental: It is possible to rent small dinghies (up to 40 horsepower) that do not require a boat license. They offer maximum freedom, but require caution in navigation and strict compliance with the approach limits to the beaches (forbidden beyond the buoys delimiting the coves).

Regulations and Conservation

The Baunei coast is an extremely fragile ecosystem. The Municipality of Baunei has implemented strict rules to protect it:
- Daily Cap: Beaches like Cala Goloritzé, Cala Mariolu, and Cala Biriala have a maximum daily capacity. For Cala Goloritzé, it is mandatory to book via the Heart of Sardinia app.
- Mooring Ban: Engine access near the beaches is prohibited. Launch corridors allow passenger disembarkation, but boats must then park outside the buoys.
- Removal Ban: It is strictly forbidden to collect pebbles, sand, or shells. Fines are severe.
- No Waste Service: There are no rubbish bins on the beaches. Everything you bring with you must be brought back.