7-Day Ogliastra Itinerary: The Perfect Trip
A week in Ogliastra day by day: sea, mountains, villages, food and wine, and the Blue Zone. The perfect itinerary for discovering everything.
Seven days to discover Ogliastra: from the Supramonte sea to the centenarians' villages, from the beaches of Tortolì to the vineyards of Jerzu. Here is the perfect itinerary, field-tested.
Day 1 — Arrival and Tortolì/Arbatax
Base: Tortolì or Arbatax
Arrive at the port of Arbatax (by ferry) or at Cagliari airport (2h by car). A relaxed afternoon exploring the red porphyry Rocce Rosse at the port of Arbatax — the famous red rocks rising from turquoise water. A swim at Porto Frailis if the season allows.
Dinner: Fresh fish at a restaurant on the port of Arbatax. Try the fregola with seafood.
Day 2 — The Beaches of Baunei (by Boat)
Boat trip from Santa Maria Navarrese or Cala Gonone. A full day at Cala Mariolu, Cala Sisine and Cala dei Gabbiani. Snorkelling in the clearest waters of the Mediterranean.
Lunch: On board or a picnic on the beach. Bring pane carasau, pecorino and tomatoes.
Evening: Aperitivo under the thousand-year-old olive tree of Santa Maria Navarrese.
Day 3 — Trekking to Cala Goloritzé
Up at dawn. Transfer to the Golgo plateau (20 min from Baunei). Descent along the trail to Cala Goloritzé (1h15 walking). A full day on Sardinia's most iconic beach. Return climb in the late afternoon.
Detour: Visit the Su Sterru chasm and the church of San Pietro at Golgo before setting off on the trail.
Dinner: At an agriturismo on the Golgo plateau. Roast suckling pig and culurgionis.
Day 4 — The Centenarians' Villages (Blue Zone)
A day dedicated to the hinterland. Morning in Villagrande Strisaili: the village with the world record for male longevity. Visit the historic centre, chat with the elders at the bar, breathe in the slow pace of life.
Lunch in Arzana, at the foot of Punta La Marmora (Sardinia's highest peak). Afternoon in Lanusei for a visit to the astronomical observatory and a breathtaking panorama of the coast.
Dinner: Trattoria in Villagrande. Blue Zone menu: broad bean soup, pane carasau, pecorino, a glass of Cannonau.
Day 5 — Jerzu and the Cannonau Wine Road
Morning exploring Jerzu, the Wine Town. Visit to Antichi Poderi for a tasting of Cannonau DOC. A walk beneath the limestone tacchi that tower over the village.
Afternoon in Ulassai: Maria Lai's Stazione dell'Arte, the Su Marmuri cave (one of the largest in Europe) and the Lequarci waterfall.
Alternative: If you are a climber, the Ulassai crags are among the finest in the Mediterranean.
Dinner: In Jerzu, accompanied by the inevitable Cannonau.
Day 6 — Southern Beaches: Cardedu and Tertenia
A beach day on the less touristy shores. Morning at Coccorrocci (Cardedu): black volcanic stone and turquoise sea — a contrast unique in Sardinia. Afternoon at Foxi Manna (Tertenia): kilometres of golden sand, almost empty.
Stop by Osini to see the ghost village of Osini Vecchio and the spectacular Scala di San Giorgio.
Evening: Lido di Orrì at sunset. The most beautiful moment of the day.
Day 7 — The Green Train and Departure
If the season allows, take the Trenino Verde — the historic railway that crosses Ogliastra through breathtaking landscapes. The Arbatax–Gairo route is one of the most spectacular in Italy: viaducts, tunnels, impenetrable forests.
Alternative: A final morning at Lido di Orrì, shopping for local produce (bottarga, pecorino, Cannonau, torrone) and departure.
Practical Tips
- A hire car is essential: public transport is inadequate
- Book the boat (Day 2) at least 1 week in advance in high season
- Best base: Tortolì/Arbatax for the coast, Baunei for the Supramonte
- Daily budget: €80–120 per person (accommodation + food + activities)
- Best time to visit: May–June or September (cooler, less crowded, better prices)
