From Baunei to Portu Cuau and Portu Pedrosu: Hiking to the Hidden Fjords of the Supramonte

In the heart of the marine Supramonte of Baunei, where the pristine white limestone plunges vertically into deep indigo waters, lie two of the most spectacular and untouched inlets in the Mediterranean: Portu Cuau ("hidden harbor") and Portu Pedrosu ("stony harbor"). Reachable only on foot through a rugged and demanding path or by sea, these two natural fjords offer a total immersion into wild Sardinian nature.

The Harbors of Transhumance and the Legends of Smugglers

Portu Cuau and Portu Pedrosu are not just beaches, but deep gashes in the cliff that create natural harbors sheltered from the winds. Since ancient times, these inlets were used by the shepherds of Baunei to load charcoal made of holm oak, timber, and livestock destined for the mainland onto boats.

The narrow and sheltered shape of Portu Cuau has fueled local legends for centuries: it is said to have been the perfect hiding place for smuggling ships and Saracen pirates, invisible from the open sea thanks to the overhanging rocky walls covered with juniper trees. As a testimony to this rural epic, several "coiles" stand along the path, including the beautiful Coile Su Tascu, restored by local shepherds.

The Trek: Sharp Limestone and Navigation in the Supramonte

The hike starts from the Golgo plateau, above Baunei. From here, you take a path that gradually descends towards the sea, following a karstic gorge. The terrain is characterized by sharp and extremely abrasive limestone, which requires maximum attention at every single step.

The vegetation is dominated by centuries-old juniper trees shaped by the wind and majestic holm oaks. In this wild environment, navigation is a true challenge: the path often fades among the rocks, and there is no mobile phone coverage. Portu Pedrosu will welcome you with its calm, crystal-clear waters, ideal for a refreshing swim, while a little further north Portu Cuau shows its narrow, wild profile.

Technical Details of the Hike

• Difficulty: EE (Experienced Hikers) due to rugged terrain and navigation difficulties.
• Walking time: About 6 hours total (round trip)
• Positive elevation gain: 450 meters
• Overall length: 13 km (round trip)
• Recommendations: Use only sturdy hiking boots with Vibram soles. Bring an offline map or a GPS device.

Energy Refuel: Almonds and Dried Figs

Such a strenuous trek in the Supramonte demands a light and highly energetic food supply. The ideal snack is inherited from the diet of the Blue Zone centenarians: handfuls of local almonds (rich in healthy fats and minerals), dried figs stuffed with walnut kernels, and a piece of carasau bread. Dry, flavorful, and digestible foods that easily withstand the heat of the backpack.

Logistics and Useful Information