Kayaking and Canoeing in Ogliastra: Exploring the Coast from the Sea

Kayaking is the most intimate way to explore the Ogliastra coast. While motorboats skim past coves at cruising speed, a kayak draws you into the landscape: you hear the sound of waves breaking against the cliffs, you paddle into sea caves, you pull ashore on tiny beaches that no boat can reach. It is slow, silent, and deeply rewarding.

The Main Itineraries

1. Santa Maria Navarrese → Cala Goloritzé (Full Day)

The classic and most spectacular itinerary. You set off from the small harbour of Santa Maria Navarrese and paddle north along the Supramonte cliffs.

• Distance: 15 km one way
• Duration: 5–7 hours with stops
• Difficulty: Medium–high (long stretch, possible currents)
• Recommended stops: Cala dei Gabbiani, Cala Mariolu, Cala Biriala

Arriving at Cala Goloritzé by kayak, with the Aguglia rising up ahead of you, is one of the most beautiful moments you can experience in Sardinia. You return by boat (arranged in advance with a water-taxi service) or, for the more experienced, by paddling back.

Warning: This itinerary requires experience and favourable weather. Northerly wind and choppy seas make the return journey dangerous.

2. Arbatax → Coccorrocci (Half Day)

A coastal itinerary heading south, less demanding. You set off from the port of Arbatax and hug the coast towards Marina di Gairo and Coccorrocci.

• Distance: 10 km one way
• Duration: 3–4 hours with stops
• Difficulty: Medium
• Recommended stops: Red Rocks of Arbatax, Marina di Gairo

3. Lotzorai → Isola dell'Ogliastra (2–3 hours)

Perfect for beginners. You set off from the beach at Lotzorai and head out to the small islet offshore. Calm water, short distance, visible seabed.

• Distance: 3 km round trip
• Duration: 2–3 hours
• Difficulty: Easy

4. Santa Maria Navarrese → Pedra Longa (Half Day)

An itinerary heading south along the wildest stretch of coast. Arriving at Pedra Longa, with the limestone tower emerging from the sea, is a dramatic moment.

• Distance: 8 km one way
• Duration: 3–4 hours
• Difficulty: Medium

5. Circumnavigation of the Santa Maria Islet (1–2 hours)

A mini coastal itinerary ideal for families with children. You paddle around the islet in front of Santa Maria Navarrese, exploring small sea caves and rocky niches.

Rental and Guides

Where to Rent

Kayak rental centres are located mainly at:

• Santa Maria Navarrese — The ideal base for itineraries heading towards the Supramonte
• Arbatax/Tortolì — For itineraries heading south
• Cala Gonone — Outside Ogliastra, but an alternative base for the Gulf of Orosei

Approximate Prices - Single kayak: €30–50/day - Double kayak: €50–70/day - Guided half-day excursion: €50–70/person - Guided full-day excursion: €80–120/person (lunch included)

Recommended Guides

Guided excursions include kayak, safety equipment, briefing, and often a packed lunch. The guides know the hidden caves, the passages between rocks, and the sea conditions — an invaluable asset, especially along the Supramonte stretch.

Equipment and What to Bring

Provided by the rental centre - Kayak (sit-on-top for touring, sit-inside for experienced paddlers) - Paddle - Life jacket - Small dry bag

Bring yourself - Waterproof sunscreen SPF 50+ - Hat with chin strap - Water shoes or sports sandals - Plenty of water (at least 2 litres per person) - Energy snacks - Snorkelling mask - Long-sleeved UV-protection top - Dry change of clothes in a dry bag

When to Paddle

• May–June: Ideal period. Calm seas, mild temperatures, few crowds
• July–August: Sea often calm in the morning, possible maestrale (NW wind) from the afternoon. Set off at dawn
• September–October: Excellent. Warm water, golden light, deserted beaches
• Winter: For experienced paddlers only. Short days, unpredictable sea

The Golden Hour

In Ogliastra the wind almost always picks up in the early afternoon (maestrale or scirocco). The golden rule is: leave at dawn, be back by 1 pm. The mornings are often perfectly calm, with flat water and magical light.

Safety

• Never underestimate distances: A kayak travels at 4–5 km/h. The coves of the Supramonte look close on the map but require hours of paddling
• Check the forecast: MarineTraffic, Windy.com, and MeteoAM are essential
• Never paddle alone on long itineraries
• Tell someone on land your planned route
• Carry a phone in a dry bag for emergencies
• Mobile coverage: Absent along most of the Supramonte coastline