Santa Maria Navarrese: The Hidden Pearl of the Ogliastra Coast

Santa Maria Navarrese is a small seaside village of 700 inhabitants, a hamlet of Baunei, that combines the authenticity of a Sardinian village with the ideal strategic position for exploring the most spectacular coastline in the Mediterranean. It lacks the chaos of Arbatax, lacks the pretensions of a seaside resort — it simply has everything you need for an unforgettable holiday.

The Legend of the Princess

The village takes its name from a medieval legend. It is said that in the 11th century, the princess of Navarre (in other versions, a Giudicato noblewoman) was shipwrecked during a storm off the Ogliastra coast. Saved from the waters, in gratitude she had a small church dedicated to the Virgin Mary built on the very spot where she had come ashore. Beside the church she planted an olive tree, which a thousand years later is still standing.

The Thousand-Year-Old Wild Olive Tree

The wild olive tree of Santa Maria Navarrese is one of the most impressive natural monuments in Sardinia. With a trunk circumference of more than 8 metres and an estimated age of between 1,000 and 2,000 years, it is a living colossus that has witnessed the Giudicati, Pisan rule, Aragonese, Spanish and Italian dominion.

It stands beside the medieval church, in the heart of the village. Entry is free. At sunset, the golden light filtering through the branches creates a sacred atmosphere.

The Harbour

The harbour of Santa Maria Navarrese is the departure point for boat trips to the coves of the Supramonte. Small and picturesque, it is home to fishing boats and tourist vessels. From here you can join:

• Day trips to Cala Mariolu, Cala Goloritzé, Cala Sisine and Cala dei Gabbiani
• Kayak excursions along the Supramonte coastline
• Diving and snorkelling outings to the seabed of the Gulf of Orosei

Booking a Boat

In high season (July–August), it is essential to book at least 2–3 days in advance. The nautical cooperatives have desks right at the harbour. Average price: €35–50/person for a day trip stopping at 3–4 coves.

Boats generally depart at 9:30–10:00 and return at 16:00–17:00.

The Beaches

Santa Maria Navarrese has several beaches reachable on foot:

Central Beach A small cove of sand and pebbles directly below the village. Clear waters, a rapidly shelving seabed. Basic facilities.

Isolotto Beach The most beautiful. A small rocky islet reachable on foot at low tide divides two coves of white sand. Turquoise waters, sandy seabed. Children love the adventure of reaching the islet.

Tancau Beach Reachable in 5 minutes by car heading south. Larger and better equipped, with beach facilities and a pine grove behind.

Where to Eat

The dining scene in Santa Maria Navarrese is excellent, with a blend of seafood cooking and Ogliastra tradition:

Recommended Restaurants

• Harbour-front trattorias — Fresh fish of the day, mixed fried fish, spaghetti with sea urchin (in season). Budget: €25–40/person
• Pizzerias — Excellent pizza by the slice and to take to the beach
• Bar dell'olivastro — Aperitivo with a view of the ancient tree

Local Products to Buy

The small fish market at the harbour sells the day's catch. Food shops carry pecorino, carasau bread and Cannonau at reasonable prices.

Where to Stay

Santa Maria Navarrese offers accommodation for every budget:

• B&Bs: €40–70/night. Many with a sea-view terrace
• Residences and apartments: €60–100/night. Ideal for families and longer stays
• Hotels: €80–150/night. Few but well positioned
• Campsites: In the surrounding area, with direct beach access

Excursions from Santa Maria

Santa Maria Navarrese's strategic location makes it the ideal base for:

• Boat trips to the coves of the Supramonte (Cala Mariolu, Goloritzé, Sisine) — from the harbour
• Trekking on the Supramonte of Baunei (20 min by car to the Golgo) — Cala Goloritzé, Su Sterru
• Kayaking along the coast — itineraries from half a day to a full day
• Diving and snorkelling — dive centres at the harbour

The Pedra Longa Walk

From Santa Maria, a coastal walk of approximately 5 km heading south leads to Pedra Longa, the 128-metre limestone obelisk rising from the sea. The trail is easy and panoramic, perfect for late afternoon. On the way back, stop for an aperitivo with a view.

Getting There

Santa Maria Navarrese is reached from the SS 125 by turning off at Lotzorai and following the signs. From Tortolì: 15 minutes. From Baunei: 10 minutes descending towards the sea. Free parking is available at the entrance to the village (limited in August).

Why Choose Santa Maria

In a world of standardised resorts and tourist villages, Santa Maria Navarrese is a real village. Fishermen haul their nets in the morning, ladies hang out the washing, children play in the square. And yet, in half an hour by boat you are at Cala Mariolu. It is the best of both worlds: authenticity and access to paradise.