The Trail from Santa Maria Navarrese to Pedra Longa: A Walk at the Gateway to Selvaggio Blu
Complete hiking guide from Santa Maria Navarrese to Pedra Longa. Discover walking times, the history of the Spire, and where to enjoy local food.
The path connecting the coastal village of Santa Maria Navarrese to the monumental Pedra Longa is one of the most beautiful and accessible hikes in all of Ogliastra. Skirting the jagged coastline and offering breathtaking views over the Gulf of Arbatax, this trail represents the natural "baptism of fire" for those wishing to approach the famous Selvaggio Blu, of which it constitutes the very first official stage.
The Spire of Baunei: A Limestone Giant by the Sea Pedra Longa, known locally as "s'Aguglia", is a majestic limestone pinnacle that rises 128 meters directly from the deep sea. This extraordinary geological structure, visible from miles away, was declared a Natural Monument in 1993. Historically, the Spire has represented a key reference point for sailors since Roman times. Local legends tell that the steep walls were climbed by the most daring shepherds in search of lost goats, defying gravity on exposed passages high above the waves.
The Trail: Between Mediterranean Scrub and Cliffs The walk begins near the northern parking lot of Santa Maria Navarrese, close to the hikers' hostel. The track winds along a comfortable, well-marked mule track that cuts halfway up the slopes of Monte Cruise. From the very first steps, you will be enveloped by the balsamic scent of helichrysum, wild rosemary, and mastic, while the mistral wind carries the salty sea breeze.
The trail alternates flat sections with gentle ups and downs, crossing small debris gulleys and natural terraces. About halfway through the walk, after crossing a panoramic saddle, the Spire of Pedra Longa suddenly reveals itself in all its scenic grandeur, standing out against the deep blue of the sea.
Technical Details of the Hike - Difficulty: E (Easy hiking) / Suitable for families and beginner walkers. - Overall length: 4 km (one way) - Walking time: About 1 hour and 30 minutes (one way) - Positive elevation gain: about 150 meters (due to the continuous ups and downs) - Terrain: Path on dirt, limestone rock, and pebbles. Sturdy hiking shoes or trail running shoes are required (avoid flip-flops or open sandals).
The Flavors of the Spire: Spaghetti with Mullet Bottarga Once you reach your destination beneath the limestone walls of Pedra Longa, you can recharge your energy at the panoramic restaurant located at the end of the paved road coming from Baunei. Here, the must-try dish is spaghetti with Sardinian bottarga: dried and grated mullet roe that releases an intense, savory, and marine flavor, perfect for crowning a morning walk along the coast.
Practical Information and Logistics
| Resource / Point of Interest | Logistical Details | Useful Tips |
|---|---|---|
| Starting Point | Northern Parking Lot, Santa Maria Navarrese | Free drinking water fountain to fill flasks at the start |
| Ending Point | Pedra Longa Parking Lot | Equipped area with free parking for cars and motorbikes |
| Return | On foot (same trail) or by car/taxi | You can arrange a transfer or be picked up by friends by car |
| Gear | Closed shoes with grippy soles, hat, sunglasses | Do not underestimate the sun in summer; bring at least 1.5 liters of water |