Weekend in Ogliastra: What to Do in 3 Days
Beaches, villages, trekking, and local flavours in 3 days: the perfect itinerary for a weekend in Ogliastra, with practical tips and an indicative budget.
Three days are enough to fall in love with Ogliastra. Not to know it — that is a lifetime's work — but to understand why everyone who comes here always wants to return. This itinerary is designed for travellers who arrive on Friday evening and leave on Monday morning, using Tortolì–Arbatax as a base.
Before You Leave
Recommended base: Tortolì or Santa Maria Navarrese. Tortolì has more services; Santa Maria Navarrese is more picturesque and closer to the wild beaches.
Getting around: Your own car or a rental. Public transport is insufficient for this itinerary.
Book in advance: Restaurants on busy evenings (July–August), boat trips to coves inaccessible by land, and any trekking guide you may need.
Day 1 — Arrival and the Sea
Morning If you arrived on Friday evening, start Saturday early. First stop: Lido di Orrì for a swim in calm water and a coffee at one of the beachfront bars. Before 9 a.m. the place is still peaceful.
Mid-Morning Head north: Boat trip from Santa Maria Navarrese (book the day before or directly at the harbour from 8:30 a.m.). Boats depart around 9:30–10:00 and visit Cala Goloritzé, Cala Mariolu, and Cala Sisine. Four hours of pure paradise.
Lunch On board the boat, or back at the harbour in Santa Maria Navarrese. Fresh fish and mixed fried seafood.
Afternoon A short visit to Santa Maria Navarrese: the thousand-year-old olive tree (1,000+ years old, protected as a natural monument), the Aragonese tower, the small harbour. Aperitivo with a view.
Evening Dinner in Tortolì — a good selection of restaurants in the town centre and along the seafront.
Day 2 — Villages and Culture
Morning Ulassai — leave at 9:00 a.m. (45 min from Tortolì). Start at the Stazione dell'Arte: allow at least 90 minutes to do justice to the Maria Lai collection. Then follow the route through the historic centre among the murals and environmental artworks scattered around the village.
Lunch Ulassai has several excellent agriturismi. Traditional Ogliastrian cuisine: culurgiones (pasta stuffed with potato and mint), pane carasau with extra-virgin olive oil, local pecorino. Budget: €20–30 per person.
Early Afternoon Grotta Su Marmuri — book the 3:00 p.m. guided tour at the entrance or by phone. About an hour of underground wonders at 10°C (a wonderful relief from the summer heat).
Late Afternoon Return to the coast via Jerzu: a quick stop at Cantina Antichi Poderi (if open) to buy Cannonau directly from the winery. Prices are better than in shops.
Day 3 — Nature and Departure
Early Morning Trekking on the Sentiero Selvaggio (not the full Selvaggio Blu, but an accessible section of the Supramonte di Baunei). The trail to Pedra Longa takes 2–3 hours return and offers extraordinary views over the Gulf of Orosei.
Less strenuous alternative: Visit the Spiaggia di Cea (Red Rocks) and then Porto Frailis beach for a final swim.
Lunch Arbatax — lunch at the harbour with freshly landed fish. The trattorias near the port offer the most honest prices in the area.
Afternoon One last browse of the local market for souvenirs: strawberry-tree honey, mirto liqueur, Cannonau, pecorino, pane carasau. Everything you need for gifts back home.
Indicative Budget
| Item | Low budget | Mid budget |
|---|---|---|
| Accommodation (2 nights) | €80–120 (B&B) | €150–250 (3★ hotel) |
| Boat trip | €35–45 pp | €45–60 pp |
| Meals (3 days) | €60–80 pp | €100–140 pp |
| Petrol | €30–40 | €30–40 |
| Entrance fees (cave, museums) | €15–20 pp | €15–20 pp |
| Total per person | €220–305 | €340–510 |
Final Tips
- Book ahead in summer — hotels and restaurants fill up fast
- Bring cash — many agriturismi and direct producers do not accept cards
- Avoid August if you dislike crowds — September is far more pleasant with lower prices
- Comfortable shoes — even the historic centres of Ogliastrian villages have cobbled streets
