Cannonau, culurgionis and pecorino: the longevity diet
Ogliastra is the homeland of Cannonau — the oldest red wine in the Mediterranean, rich in antioxidants and linked to the secrets of Sardinian longevity. But the Ogliastra table offers much more: culurgionis (ravioli sealed in a "wheat-ear" crimp), pane carasau, goat's pecorino, bitter honey and seadas. This itinerary is a gastronomic pilgrimage.
Jerzu is the capital of Cannonau. The Cantina Sociale produces over 3 million bottles a year from vines growing at 500 metres altitude on the limestone Tacchi. In August the Cannonau Festival is held — three days of tastings, music and dancing in the square.
Ask for the "Cannonau Riserva degli Anziani" — the label dedicated to the centenarians. You won't find it outside Sardinia.
Tortolì is the commercial hub of Ogliastra, with restaurants combining the freshest fish from the Tyrrhenian with the agro-pastoral traditions of the hinterland. Don't miss the local bottarga and sea urchins from January to March.
At the Arbatax fish market early in the morning you'll find fishermen selling the night's catch. Lobster at affordable prices.
Ilbono is one of the villages where the culurgionis tradition is strongest. Every family has its own recipe — potato, mint and pecorino, sealed with the typical "spighitta" (wheat-ear crimp) that every woman learns to make as a child.
In August there's the culurgionis festival. Arrive early — they always run out.
Loceri is home to centuries-old olive groves that produce an intense and fruity extra-virgin olive oil. The olive-oil tradition dates back to Roman times and every December the pressing is celebrated with community festivities.
End your journey in the world's most long-lived village with a traditional dinner: pane carasau with fresh tomato, 12-month aged pecorino, a glass of Cannonau and sapa (cooked must) dessert. The longevity diet, served at the table.
In every restaurant, ask for "su práttu de is bèccios" (the old folks' plate). They understand and serve you the real tradition.